Quilting & Sewing Thread Guide
Thread choice comes down to three things: the fiber (cotton, polyester, rayon, silk, wool), the size (a lower weight number is a thicker thread), and the job. Start with the chart below, read the guide for your task, or browse 41 thread makers.
Which thread for which job
| Job | Fiber | Weight | Needle | |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Piecing | Cotton (or polyester) | 50wt | 80/12 | Guide → |
| Machine quilting (domestic) | Cotton or polyester | 40wt (50wt to blend) | 90/14 for 40wt; 80/12 for 50wt | Guide → |
| Longarm quilting | Polyester or cotton | 40wt (50wt to blend) | Longarm #18 (4.0) for 40wt; #16 (3.5) for 50wt | Guide → |
| Invisible appliqué | Polyester monofilament | Very fine (not wt-rated) | 60/8–80/12 | Guide → |
| Machine embroidery | Rayon or polyester | 40wt | 75/11–90/14 | Guide → |
| Big-stitch quilting | Perle cotton | 12wt cotton or #8 perle | Embroidery or chenille | Guide → |
| Hand embroidery | Stranded cotton floss | 1–6 strands | Embroidery (crewel) | Guide → |
Thread guides
Thread brands
Thread FAQ
What weight thread is best for quilting?
For piecing, a 50wt cotton or polyester. For machine quilting, 40wt or 50wt: 40wt shows more, 50wt blends in. Longarmers most often use 40wt polyester or cotton.
Is 40wt thread thicker than 50wt?
Yes. In the wt system a lower number means a thicker thread, so 40wt is heavier than 50wt, and 12wt is heavier still.
Can I use polyester thread on a cotton quilt?
Yes. The claim that polyester thread cuts cotton fabric is a myth: wear depends on the relative strength of the thread and the fabric, not the fiber. Choose a quality polyester or a non-glazed cotton, and avoid stiff, wiry thread in the machine.
What does 50/3 mean on a spool?
The first number is the size of each ply and the second is the number of plies twisted together. A 50/3 thread is about 1.5 times as heavy as a 50/2 of the same fiber, even though both may be labeled "50wt."
What needle should I use for 50wt thread?
An 80/12 needle suits most 50wt threads. Heavier thread needs a larger needle, and metallic thread needs its own 90/14 Topstitch or Metallic needle.
What thread is used for sashiko?
Sashiko thread is a matte, twisted cotton made for the technique, similar in thickness to #8 perle cotton. #8 perle is a common substitute, though shinier.
Does thread go bad?
It can. Older cotton weakens with age, and cotton made a generation ago is best retired; polyester shows little sign of deteriorating. Long exposure to sunlight can fade colors and make some threads brittle, so store thread out of direct sun. Snap-test an old spool: if it breaks with a clean snap it's still good; if it pulls apart like a cotton ball, throw it out.
Should top and bobbin thread match?
Not necessarily. Many quilters use a finer bobbin thread or match the bobbin color to the backing; when top and bobbin threads differ, adjust the top tension until the stitches balance.
Looking for fabric or longarm brands? See all quilting manufacturers.